Daytrip Destinations: Garrison in Hudson Valley
Tidal Trails: History, Nature and Charm
On Saturday, Going Coastal embarked on a delightful day trip to the Hudson Valley, exploring some of the region’s most captivating sites. This journey through the picturesque landscape offered a perfect blend of history, culture, and natural beauty.
The Scenic Splendor of Route 9D
The adventure began with a drive along the scenic Route 9D, which hugs the eastern bank of the Hudson River. This winding road offers breathtaking views of the Hudson Highlands, with the river’s sparkling waters on one side and lush, forested hills on the other. The route itself is a testament to the area’s remarkable beauty, showcasing why the Hudson Valley has long been a source of inspiration for artists and nature lovers alike.
Boscobel House & Gardens: A Neoclassical Jewel
Our first stop was the splendid Boscobel House & Gardens in Garrison, NY. Perched on a hill with a commanding view of the Hudson River, Boscobel boasts what many call the “million-dollar view” of the Hudson Highlands.
The Boscobel House is a stunning example of Neoclassical architecture, meticulously restored to its early 19th-century splendor. Overlooking the Hudson River, this Federal-period mansion showcases the elegance and symmetry characteristic of Neoclassicism. The exterior features a harmonious blend of clean lines, stately columns, and a pedimented portico, and intricate decorative details that reflect the sophistication of early American design.
Boscobel House, originally built between 1804 and 1808, was the dream home of Loyalists Elizabeth and States Dyckman. States Dyckman, born in Manhattan in the mid-1700s, had a tumultuous early life, including being arrested as a Loyalist during the American Revolution. After escaping to England, he amassed wealth working for the British army’s Quartermaster’s Department.
In 1789, Dyckman returned to New York and settled at King’s Grange on Verplank’s Point. He married Elizabeth Corne in 1794, and they began planning their ideal home, Boscobel (an Anglicized name for the Italianate bosco bello, “pretty woodland”). The house, completed in 1808, was distinguished by its Federal-style architecture and elegant interiors, featuring furniture by renowned cabinetmaker Duncan Phyfe.
After changing hands several times, Boscobel fell into disrepair by the 1950s. In 1955, the house was sold to a wrecker for just $35 to be demolished. This prompted preservationists to take action to save the historic structure.
Boscobel: A Testament to Preservation
Lila Acheson Wallace, co-founder of Reader’s Digest, played a crucial role in Boscobel’s preservation. In June 1956, she provided an anonymous $50,000 donation that allowed the newly incorporated Boscobel Restoration, Inc. to acquire the property. Under Wallace’s guidance, the house was carefully dismantled, moved 15 miles north to Garrison, New York, and meticulously reconstructed.
Wallace continued to be involved in Boscobel’s restoration, overseeing the landscaping and interior decoration. She brought in interior designers William Kennedy and Benjamin Garber to furnish the house with 18th-century English and European antiques. On May 21, 1961, the restored Boscobel was formally opened to the public, with New York Governor Nelson A. Rockefeller praising it as “one of the most beautiful houses ever built in America.”
Today, Boscobel House and Gardens stands as a testament to both early 19th-century American architecture and mid-20th-century historic preservation efforts, largely thanks to the vision and generosity of Lila Acheson Wallace.
The Herb Garden & Orangery
Among Boscobel’s many treasures, the herb garden stands out as a lush, fragrant oasis. Tucked away beside the apple orchard, this charming garden is a haven for both the senses and the soul. The thoughtfully designed garden showcases a variety of aromatic and medicinal plants that were commonly used in the early 19th century. A brick Orangery anchors the Herb Garden that serves as a greenhouse, a space for drying plants, and in the winter a place for plants that thrive in warmer climates, like oranges.
Strolling through the garden, you’ll find neatly organized beds brimming with sage, thyme, rosemary, and lavender, each carefully selected for its historical significance and sensory appeal. The garden’s layout reflects traditional herbalist practices, with each plant chosen not only for its utility but also for its beauty. The scents of fresh herbs mingle in the air, offering a sensory connection to the past and an appreciation for the horticultural practices of the era.
Panoramic Views of the Hudson River
The true marvel of Boscobel is its panoramic view of the Hudson River. From the mansion’s vantage point, the sweeping landscape unfolds like a living painting. The Hudson River, with its shimmering waters, snakes gracefully through the rolling hills and verdant woodlands of the Hudson Highlands. The view changes with the light, from the golden hues of sunrise to the soft pastels of sunset, each moment casting a new spell on the landscape.
The Hudson River, at this point, takes on the character of a fjord, its waters meandering through a landscape sculpted by millennia of geological forces. The river’s deep, blue expanse winds through the valley, flanked by towering cliffs and rugged hills that rise sharply from the water’s edge. Constitution Island sits in the marsh below the escarpment and across the river is West Point Military Academy.
The Great Chain
A piece of the Great Chain is on display, a formidable barrier used during the American Revolutionary War to thwart British naval forces. This chain stretched from West Point to Constitution Island, blocking a crucial waterway that could have split the colonies. Constructed of massive links, some weighing up to 130 pounds, the chain was floated on log rafts to create an impenetrable barrier. The significance of this defensive measure was underscored by Benedict Arnold’s treasonous plot to surrender West Point to the British, which highlighted the strategic importance of the chain in maintaining control over the river and protecting the American cause during the war. The display at Boscobel serves as a powerful reminder of the Revolutionary War’s ingenuity and determination.
The Relationship of Art and Nature
As you wander through Boscobel’s apple orchard, gardens and grounds, you’ll encounter the busts of the Hudson River School artists who were instrumental in defining this influential art movement. The installation is the work of Greg Wyatt, director of the Newington-Cropsey Foundation Academy of Art and includes the likenesses of key figures such as Thomas Cole, the movement’s founder, and Frederic Edwin Church, whose dramatic landscapes and vivid depictions of the Hudson River were integral to the school’s acclaim. The installation invites contemplation of the deep relationship between art and nature.
Visitors can meander through Boscobel’s beautifully curated gardens and the Frances Stevens Reese Woodland Trail offering a serene nature walk with spectacular river views. On our visit, the house was closed due to restoration activities after a ceiling collapse in the main library. For more information on Boscobel House and Gardens guided tours and scheduled events, visit the official Boscobel website.
St. Philip’s Church in the Highlands: A Gothic Revival Treasure
Next, we visited St. Philip’s Church in the Highlands, a beautiful example of Gothic Revival architecture designed by Richard Upjohn, the same architect who designed Trinity Church in New York City. The church’s stone exterior and serene setting atop a hill surrounded by the old cemetery make it a picturesque stop. Inside, the stained-glass windows and historic organ create an atmosphere of quiet reverence.
St. Philip’s has a rich and complex history dating back to Colonial times. The church was originally established around 1770 as a chapel of St. Peter’s Church in Peekskill, which had received a charter from King George III. During the Revolutionary War, St. Philip’s was known as a Tory (Loyalist) stronghold.
According to local legend, George Washington intervened when a group of Patriots planned to burn down the Tory church, but were stopped by Washington himself. He is said to have declared, “That, sir, is my Church!” To commemorate this event, a stained-glass window depicting George Washington was later installed in the church’s vestibule, where it can still be seen today.
A church member, Mrs. Gerber, gave us an impromptu tour sharing a wealth of local knowledge that brought the church history to life and enriched our visit with local lore. Several ropes hang inside the church entry, each rope in control of one tower bell. Mrs. Gerber demonstrated and then offered us to let us learn the ropes. The bell is chimed by pulling the rope straight down so the thousand-pound bell lifts and clapper fall against the side, when you pull again the clapper falls on the opposite side. Once the bell starts swinging it builds momentum.
Graymoor: A Sanctuary of Peace
Our journey continued to Graymoor, the “Holy Mountain,” is the spiritual retreat of the Franciscan Friars of the Atonement. This tranquil center offers a peaceful respite with its walking paths and labyrinth. Graymoor’s history is as intriguing as its serene surroundings. Originally an Episcopal community, it converted to Roman Catholicism in 1909, sparking a legal dispute over land ownership with St. Philip’s Church. The conflict was eventually resolved through state legislation, highlighting the broader tensions between Episcopal and Catholic communities of the time. “That Nothing Be Lost” Thrift & Antique Shop occupies one of the oldest buildings onsite constructed in 1909.
Literary Finds at Antipodean Books, Maps & Prints
In Garrison, we stopped by Antipodean, a charming bookstore specializing in rare and out-of-print books, maps, and prints. Browsing through their collection felt like traversing through time and space. We uncovered antiquarian gems such as an edition of works by 16th century Italian poet Torquato Tasso filled with engravings and an early steel engraving of Baby Bacchus. The knowledgeable owner can assist in finding specific items or help collectors discover new treasures. This bookstore is a haven for collectors and history enthusiasts, offering a unique glimpse into the literary and historical richness of the Hudson Valley. 
Cold Spring: A Quaint River Town
The final destination was the picturesque village of Cold Spring. This well-preserved 19th-century town offers a delightful blend of Victorian-era architecture and quaint shops. We enjoyed a late lunch at Hudson House, an old house with a view of the Hudson River. Though the meal was not equal to the view, the riverfront stroll that followed was a perfect way to conclude our day, with breathtaking vistas of the Hudson River and the surrounding mountains.
The Magic of the Hudson Valley
The Hudson Valley’s allure lies in its seamless blend of natural splendor, rich history, and vibrant culture. From its dramatic landscapes to its well-preserved historic sites and charming towns, the region offers a captivating escape. The Hudson Valley’s commitment to preserving its heritage is evident in sites like Boscobel and the myriad hiking trails that weave through the area.
As our day came to a close, our ride home began with the picturesque views of the Hudson River and the surrounding landscape, but as we moved along the winding roads, dark clouds gathered, and the skies opened up. The rain fell heavily, creating a curtain of water that obscured visibility and turned the roads slick and treacherous and pockets of flooded roadway. Despite the weather, the Hudson Valley’s enchanting beauty shone through, reaffirming why it remains a cherished destination for city dwellers and travelers alike.
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